The Linear AK-11 lets visitors open a gate with an entry code. Before mounting it, plan where the wires will come out: they enter the keypad from behind. The keypad also has two parts, a fixed bracket and a removable body that contains the wiring terminals.
1. Choose the location and plan the wire route
Mount the keypad where the person using it can see the entire gate, but cannot reach the moving gate while entering a code.
On a gooseneck post, the wires can run up inside the post and come out behind the keypad. On a wall or masonry column, route the wires through the wall or column so they reach the back of the unit. The AK-11 has no bottom knockout for conduit entering from below, so plan the rear exit before fastening the bracket.
2. Remove the keypad body and mount the bracket
Use the keylock at the bottom to unlock the AK-11. Lift the entire keypad body off the mounting bracket. The wiring terminals are in that removable body; the front face is not a separate cover.
Fasten the bracket to the chosen surface. A standard pedestal uses four security bolts and locknuts. For a wall or column, use fasteners appropriate for that material. Bring the wires out behind the bracket, leaving enough length to connect them to the removed keypad body.
3. Connect the wires and put the body back
A basic gate installation uses two wires for keypad power and two for the gate’s opening command.
- Power: Connect 2 wires from a suitable 12–24V AC/DC source to J4 terminals 1 and 2. This may be a suitable auxiliary output on the gate operator or a separate power supply.
- Gate OPEN command: Connect 2 additional wires to J3 Relay #1 N.O. terminal 1 and COMMON terminal 2 to the operator’s designated OPEN input. Check the operator’s diagram for its terminal names.
- Earth ground: Connect 1 wire to J4 terminal 6 to a good earth grounding point, as directed in the AK-11 manual.
Once the connections are made, guide the wire slack back through the rear opening. Hook the keypad body over the bracket and seat it without pinching the wires. Use the bottom keylock to secure it after the final test.
4. Program the first gate code
The AK-11’s factory master programming code is 123456. Change it during setup. Entry codes are four digits by default; if you want a different length, set that length before adding codes.
For a standard four-digit code that activates Relay #1:
-
Enter programming mode:
# 9 # 123456
Use the current master code if it has already been changed. -
Change the master code:
98 # [new six-digit master] # [same new master] # -
Add an entry code:
01 # [code] # [same code] # 1 # -
Exit programming mode:
* * #
The factory setting for Relay #1 activation is two seconds. Keep the master code separate from the entry code drivers will use.
5. Read the indicator lights and test the gate
The AK-11 has two small indicator windows near the top. Red and green are two states of the same left indicator. Yellow appears in the separate right indicator.
- 🔴 Red, left indicator: The keypad has power and is idle. A red light at this point does not mean the gate has received an OPEN command.
- 🟢 Green, same left indicator: The keypad accepted the entry code and activated the programmed relay. The gate operator should receive the OPEN request.
- 🟡 Yellow, right indicator: The keypad is locked out after too many incorrect codes. At the factory setting, three wrong attempts cause a one-minute lockout.
Enter the complete entry code; you do not need to press # afterward. If the left indicator turns green but the gate does not open, check the Relay #1-to-OPEN wiring and the operator’s status. Once the gate responds correctly, secure the keypad body with the bottom keylock.
Once the gate opens from the keypad and the body is locked onto its bracket, the AK-11 is ready for everyday use. Keep the new master code somewhere secure, and test any additional entry codes before giving them to users.
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